« April 2007 | Main | June 2007 »

"Was someone placing little eye droppers into birdie beaks? Had the birds somehow been trained to lap up milk, so to speak, the way a cat might? What was going on here?"

Frank Bruni on Milk-Fed Birds

Posted by Josh Friedland on May 29, 2007 in Eating | Link | add to del.icio.us | Digg this story | Email this post

"I think the term is a bit overwrought, a little too in love with its own sound, trying too hard to affect the gravity of science. It’s true that these chefs are interested in the science of food, but so is anyone who knows that 135ºF is the temperature of medium-rare meat. 'Molecular gastronomy' seems more like a theory than a practice. No one is breaking out the microscopes and cooking molecule by molecule."

Francis Lam on Molecular Gastronomy

Posted by Josh Friedland on May 15, 2007 in Cooking | Link | add to del.icio.us | Digg this story | Email this post

"In the current culinary mode salt is making too much of a statement. A couple of weeks ago I had dinner at a new restaurant and I have no idea how the food tasted because each dish was sprinkled with coarse salt like so much white confetti. If undersalting is the sign of a timid chef, oversalting is the sign of an arrogant one."

Marian Burros on Salt

Posted by Josh Friedland on May 9, 2007 in Restaurants | Link | add to del.icio.us | Digg this story | Email this post

"Max Brenner exploits the automatic respect that diners feel for a principled culinary artist and hitches it to a mass-market endeavor as gimmicky as Planet Hollywood. It’s Planet Valrhona, a faux-artisanal juggernaut."

Frank Bruni on Max Brenner

Posted by Josh Friedland on May 2, 2007 in Restaurants | Link | add to del.icio.us | Digg this story | Email this post