Agenda: 3/31 to 4/6

1. Red Persimmons, a Japanese film about persimmon farming and production, Wednesday, March 31, through Tuesday, April 6, at the Film Forum, 209 West Houston Street (212.727.8110).
2. Sustainable Seafood Solutions, a panel discussion and tasting sponsored by Slow Food USA, Thursday, April 1, 7:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m., at the French Culinary Institute (462 Broadway, 2nd floor). $65/Members, $75/Non-members (212.965.5640).
3. Four-Course Single Malt Scotch Dinner, Thursday, April 1, 7:15 p.m., at Nick & Stef's Steakhouse, 9 Pennsylvania Plaza (Eighth Avenue and 33rd Street). $75/person (212.563.4444).
4. Italian Vineyard Pairings: Vino e Formaggio, wine and cheese tasting, Saturday, April 3, 1:00 p.m. to 2:30 p.m., at Italian Wine Merchants (108 East 16th Street). $75/person (212.473.2323).

Passover Roundups:
1. Top 5 Restaurant Seders [New York Magazine]
2. Seder Invaders [New York Post]
3. For Passover (scroll down) [Strong Buzz]

Ongoing Events:
1. A Distant View, an exhibition of photographs by Martha Carroll of the Parisian market Les Halles, March 29 through May 14 at La Maison Francaise, New York University, 16 Washington Mews (212.998.8750).
2. Chocolate, Coffee, Tea, a special exhibition of the utensils developed to serve these products when they were introduced through trade in the 17th century, at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1000 Fifth Avenue at 82nd Street. The exhibition closes July 11, 2004 (212.535.7710).
3. Cookin': A Sizzling Entertainment, "a fast-paced kitchen percussion show combining comedy, rhythm and non-verbal performance," at the Minetta Lane Theatre, 18 Minetta Lane (212.420.8000).

Taste: Soup Dumplings

Soup dumplings, those tender pouches of ground pork and broth from Shanghai, seemed to explode across New York City in the mid- to late 1990s, perhaps reaching a peak circa 1998, when Joe's Shanghai, one of the original dumpling purveyors, opened an upscale branch in the heart of midtown Manhattan.

While the fervor for soup dumplings may have settled down and the long lines have abated, a return trip to the Joe's Shanghai restaurant in Elmhurst, Queens, confirmed that they are still as tasty as they ever were.

Tucked away in a small shopping plaza off of Broadway, Joe's Shanghai serves two variations on the soup dumpling theme, pork or a combination of pork and crab. The dumplings arrive to the table in piping hot bamboo steamers. Like a beggar's purse, each plump dumpling contains a little pork meatball surrounded by a meaty broth. Tongs are provided to lift the dumplings off the steamer and onto a soup spoon. To prevent burning one's mouth and to savor the dumpling, the preferred method of consumption is to bite off a little piece of the doughy wrapper, suck out the broth with a slurp, and then polish off the rest.

The visit was inspired by an article by Margo True in the April 2004 issue of Saveur detailing the art and history of the soup dumpling (the article is not online). Ms. True writes that the exact origins of soup dumplings, or xiao long bao ("little dumplings from basket"), are unknown, but they first appeared in Nanxiang, northwest of Shanghai, at least 100 years ago.

The article includes a recipe to make the dumplings at home, and Ms. True reveals the secret behind the soup. The rich liquid comes from small cubes of aspic made from pork skin that is mixed into the filling. As the filling steams, the aspic melts--turning from solid into liquid--and soup dumplings are born.

Joe's Shanghai, 82-74 Broadway, Elmhurst, Queens (718.639.6888). Multiple locations in Flushing, Queens, and Manhattan.

Cooking by Hand, Part II: Bottom-Up Cooking

As I wrote earlier, a major section of Paul Bertolli’s Cooking by Hand is an exposition on what he calls “bottom-up cooking.” It’s an expression that he derives from the Italian “fondo di cottoura (literally ‘the bottom of the cooking’).” The technique is literal: Pan-roasting meats and vegetables in order to obtain caramelized scrapings that dislodge from the bottom of the meat into the pan and provide the base for sauces. The method of extracting flavor results in what he calls sugo:

Sugo has the same root as succulent and it is synonymous with succo, the word for freshly squeezed fruit or vegetable juice. The term sugo applies equally to the simple pan drippings of roasted meat, braised fish, or vegetables, and to the more complex liquid amalgam that results from the long, moist cooking of meat or fowl with or without aromatic components.

Mr. Bertolli provides detailed recipes for complex meat broths and ragus, but one of the easiest and most basic applications of “bottom-up cooking” is for pan-roasted chicken.

Agenda: 3/24 to 3/30

1. Ode to a Grecian Spring: An Artichoke Feast, a special artichoke menu created by chef/author Diane Kochilas, at Pylos, 128 East 7th Street, Monday, March 22, through Sunday, March 28. $65/person (212.473.0220). [via Time Out]
2. Elementary Dining Class, a course in dining etiquette for Fifth- and sixth-graders, Saturday, 10 a.m. to 1 p.m., at Eleven Madison Park, 11 Madison Avenue. $45/child, including lunch (212.889.0905). [see also: VittlesVamp]
3. Whiskey Tasting with John Hansell, featuring rare and classic whiskeys from Speyside, Monday, March 29, 7:00 p.m., at D.B.A., 41 1st Avenue. $25/person (212.475.5097).

Ongoing Events:
1. Chocolate, Coffee, Tea, a special exhibition of the utensils developed to serve these products when they were introduced through trade in the 17th century, at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1000 Fifth Avenue at 82nd Street. The exhibition closes July 11, 2004 (212.535.7710).
2. Cookin': A Sizzling Entertainment, "a fast-paced kitchen percussion show combining comedy, rhythm and non-verbal performance," at the Minetta Lane Theatre, 18 Minetta Lane (212.420.8000).

The "Flogging" of Gourmet

Hot off the presses, the April issue of Gourmet magazine features an article about food blogs, dubbed "flogs" by the author (here's hoping this term doesn't stick!). The round-up of food Web sites includes The Food Section, The Radical Chef, Chocolate & Zucchini, MeatHenge, Bourrez Visage, and eGullet.

Regarding The Food Section, the article comments:

With its simple, elegant design, thoughtful postings, and comprehensive links, The Food Section is the consummate gastronomic blog. Solo operator Josh Friedland cooks up the essential elements while avoiding the amateur pitfall of unregulated self-absorption.

Oh well, I guess I hit a pitfall with this navel-gazing post!

Congratulations to all of the food blogs recognized in this article!

Agenda: 3/17 to 3/23

1. Cheese Lovers' Ultimate Indulgence, a course on cooking with cheese taught by Micol Negrin, Wednesday, March 17, 5:30 to 8:30 p.m., at Grace's Marketplace, 1237 Third Avenue (at 71st Street). $150/person (917.602.1519).
2. Beer Tasting, featuring 12 German imported beers and including dinner, Friday, March 19, 7:00 to 10:00 p.m., at Loreley, 7 Rivington Street (between Bowery and Chrystie Street). $27/person (212.253.7077).
3. The Brilliance of Barolo, a tasting led by David Lynch, Wine Director at Babbo, Monday, March 22, 7:00 to 9:00 p.m., at Italian Wine Merchants, 108 East 16th Street. $95/person (212.473.2323).
4. Foods of the Silk Road: Carousing and Consuming, an Original Asian Diversity, a lecture sponsored by the Culinary Historians of New York, Tuesday, March 23, 6:30 p.m. reception/7:00 p.m. program, at the China Institute, 125 East 65th Street. Members/$25, Guests/$30 (212.334.4175).

Ongoing Events:
1. Thiebauds, an exhibition of photographs by Sharon Core that reenact food paintings by artist Wayne Thiebaud, through March 22 at Bellwether, 335 Grand Street, Brooklyn (718.387.3701).
2. Chocolate, Coffee, Tea, a special exhibition of the utensils developed to serve these products when they were introduced through trade in the 17th century, at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1000 Fifth Avenue at 82nd Street. The exhibition closes July 11, 2004 (212.535.7710).
3. Cookin': A Sizzling Entertainment, "a fast-paced kitchen percussion show combining comedy, rhythm and non-verbal performance," at the Minetta Lane Theatre, 18 Minetta Lane (212.420.8000).

This Is the Storekeeper

A poster produced by the Federal Art Project about retail food markets, merchants, and healthy eating (1936 or 1937). From the Work Projects Administration Poster Collection at the Library of Congress.

Runner-Up: Tartine with Raspberries, Mascarpone, and Honey

Before settling on the Tartine with Bacon, Avocado, and Mâche as The Food Section official entry in Is My Blog Burning? The Tartine Edition, the test kitchen also experimented with a sweet tartine based on a recipe from Viana La Place's Panini, Bruschetta, Crostini: Sandwiches, Italian Style for bruschetta topped with mascarpone, raspberries, and honey.

To make the tartine, lightly butter and grill a slice of round country bread, let cool slightly, and spread with a layer of sweet and creamy mascarpone. Top with fresh raspberries and drizzle with honey.

The combination of warm and crunchy bread, fresh mascarpone, and sweet berries made for a fantastic breakfast (and a solid runner-up).

n.b.: This tartine could probably be repeated as a (healthier and lighter) regular breakfast by skipping the butter and spreading the grilled bread with a thinner layer of mascarpone.

Agenda: 3/10 to 3/16

1. Beer & Sausage: A Local Tradition, beer and sausage pairing featuring Garrett Oliver of Brooklyn Brewery, Sunday, March 14, at Blue Hill, 75 Washington Place. $55/dinner, $35/beer pairing (212.539.1776 for reservations).
2. Second Avenue Deli will celebrate its Fiftieth Anniversary on Monday, March 15. From 11:30 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., prices will be rolled back to 1954 levels. 156 Second Avenue (212.677.0606). [via New York Times, New York Post]
3. Introduction to Wine & Cheese Pairing, Tuesday, March 16, 6:30 p.m., at the Artisanal Cheese Center, 500 West 37th Street (at 10th Avenue), 2nd floor. $75/person (877.797.1200).

Ongoing Events:
1. Thiebauds, an exhibition of photographs by Sharon Core that reenact food paintings by artist Wayne Thiebaud, through March 22 at Bellwether, 335 Grand Street, Brooklyn (718.387.3701).
2. Chocolate, Coffee, Tea, a special exhibition of the utensils developed to serve these products when they were introduced through trade in the 17th century, at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1000 Fifth Avenue at 82nd Street. The exhibition closes July 11, 2004 (212.535.7710).
3. Cookin': A Sizzling Entertainment, "a fast-paced kitchen percussion show combining comedy, rhythm and non-verbal performance," at the Minetta Lane Theatre, 18 Minetta Lane (212.420.8000).

Is My Blog Burning? Tartine with Bacon, Avocado, and Mâche

For my entry in the second installment of Is My Blog Burning?, I adapted a recipe from Nancy Silverton's Sandwich Book for a bacon, avocado, and watercress sandwich.

The challenge, as presented by Clotilde, was to create a tartine, which she defined as an open-faced sandwich topped with a spreadable ingredient and artfully-arranged toppings. To meet these guidelines, I altered Ms. Silverton's recipe, which calls for layering slices of avocado on top of bacon and watercress. Instead, I crushed the avocado with a fork, blending it with lemon juice, olive oil, salt, and pepper, to make a spreadable base in which to embed the rest of the toppings. But, I am jumping ahead.

First, I took a slice of round country bread, spread both sides lightly with butter, and grilled it. When the bread was grilled to a light golden brown, I removed it from the panini press and rubbed the top with a raw clove of garlic. Then, I spread a generous layer of the avocado mixture across the bread and topped it with two slices of crisp bacon. Between the bacon strips, I carefully inserted tender, baby leaves of mâche (which I substituted for the watercress because they looked so much better and fresher at the store). You may not be able to tell from the picture, but I think this made for an aesthetically-arranged sandwich, with the bacon, lettuce, and avocado forming their own defined zones of color and texture. But, more importantly, the tartine was delicious!

Thanks to Clotilde for launching this international tartine-a-thon!