Keith McNally on Graydon Carter
Evan Kleiman on "Food Snatchers"
"In the current culinary mode salt is making too much of a statement. A couple of weeks ago I had dinner at a new restaurant and I have no idea how the food tasted because each dish was sprinkled with coarse salt like so much white confetti. If undersalting is the sign of a timid chef, oversalting is the sign of an arrogant one."
Marian Burros on Salt
"Max Brenner exploits the automatic respect that diners feel for a principled culinary artist and hitches it to a mass-market endeavor as gimmicky as Planet Hollywood. It’s Planet Valrhona, a faux-artisanal juggernaut."
Frank Bruni on Max Brenner
Steven Shaw on Rats
"Balthazar is a great restaurant because it looks and feels so much like Paris that you're always surprised to find yourself on Prince Street. But Morandi doesn't feel remotely like Italy. It feels like just exactly what it is--hip New York indulging in yet another feeding frenzy."
Ruth Reichl on Morandi
"Unveil a storefront anywhere in Manhattan with tables and chairs set up inside and I guarantee you that within half an hour somebody will be knocking at the door asking what kind of restaurant you have and when it's going to open. Half an hour after that, it'll be on restaurantnerd.com."