Frank Bruni on Milk-Fed Birds
"I think the term is a bit overwrought, a little too in love with its own sound, trying too hard to affect the gravity of science. It’s true that these chefs are interested in the science of food, but so is anyone who knows that 135ºF is the temperature of medium-rare meat. 'Molecular gastronomy' seems more like a theory than a practice. No one is breaking out the microscopes and cooking molecule by molecule."
Francis Lam on Molecular Gastronomy
"In the current culinary mode salt is making too much of a statement. A couple of weeks ago I had dinner at a new restaurant and I have no idea how the food tasted because each dish was sprinkled with coarse salt like so much white confetti. If undersalting is the sign of a timid chef, oversalting is the sign of an arrogant one."
Marian Burros on Salt
"Max Brenner exploits the automatic respect that diners feel for a principled culinary artist and hitches it to a mass-market endeavor as gimmicky as Planet Hollywood. It’s Planet Valrhona, a faux-artisanal juggernaut."