The Food Section

Ryan Magarian, Ambassador of Imbibing

At S Bar in Hollywood, master bartender Ryan Magarian (second from left) watches approvingly as miixologists-in-training learn the nuances of crafting cocktails.

If cocktails everywhere were designed by Ryan Magarian and made by bartenders who have been through his training program, we'd be a country of seriously raging alcoholics.

But such a scenario would be very expensive. And more importantly, he'd never want it that way.

"I’m not trying to get people to drink more. I’m getting people to drink less. I just want you to drink better," he says. Although some existing and invented buzzwords are tossed around, he uses "passion," "awesome," and "excited" with such frequency and conviction that you just have to believe him.

The 10-plus years Magarian has spent concocting thousands of drinks and customizing cocktail menus for clients large (Holland America Cruise Line, Fairmont and Sofitel Hotels chains) and small (restaurants in Portland and Seattle) have not dampened his enthusiasm one bit. But lately the "associates" in his firm, Liquid Relations, crisscross the globe when he needs to stay closer to home in Portland. Magarian's other venture, Aviation Gin, takes his ambition one step further by allowing him to formulate actual raw materials, not just ingredient combinations. Such is the life of a master mixologist in contemporary American cocktail culture.

Magarian easily bounces between teaching a group of eager bartenders and engaging in one-on-one conversation. He's in Hollywood for a few days to train the bar staff of the newest Katsuya, which just opened within the splashy brand new Americana at Brand development in nearby Glendale. Magarian's presence ensures that when advanced cocktail culture arrives in suburbia, it's done right. This is the third in a string of locations of the Japanese cuisine and style emporium. Los Angeles-based owner and operator SBE Entertainment Group, best known for their slick nightlife venues (think the "Entourage" lifestyle), have found a winning formula in pairing Philippe Starck's interior designs with chef Katsuya Uechiâ's cooking. Not too long ago, quiet Glendale would have been considered an unconventional choice for both a glam-type Katsuya restaurant and a cocktail roster of Liquid Relation's ilk. Times have changed, and Magarian is an appropriate ambassador for the expansion of high-end eating and drinking beyond the confines of urban centers. 

Ryan Magarian with his creation, the "Kiwi Envy" (see recipe below).

With his tall stature, Pilates-enhanced posture, well-fitting jeans, dark shirt and sport coat, Portland native Magarian, 34, looks like he can get past the most formidable velvet rope scene at a typical SBE venue. Or any club, anywhere. His down-to-earth charm doesn't hurt either.

And yet he's not interested in just "rooms with alcohol." Hiring Magarian means committing to a whole other level of drink dedication. He frames it as a wise investment. "I call this kind of bar culture an insurance policy. What if the food doesn't live up to the hype? At least you have another kitchen -- a liquid kitchen -- now you have two shots. You'd be crazy to not take that policy out on yourself."

On a weekday afternoon inside the uber-designed S Bar, 20 or so staff members are seated around the dramatically lit bar, with thick training binders perched on their laps. Magarian's exhaustive program (typically five days long, but this one will be cut short so he can catch a flight north for a speaking engagement in Napa at the CIA at Greystone) takes the participants into "the cave" as they learn "the toughest bartending there is. "His affable yet firm demeanor keep things humming along. Magarian talks with incredible intensity at a breakneck pace, but every word is clearly enunciated and heard above the din of clacking bar equipment.

"I teach templates," he explains. For instance, Magarian doesn't demonstrate an Old Fashioned and then stand back and watch as trainees learn rote. Instead he gets them to understand how this staple of the cocktail canon isn't "just whiskey and muddled fruit. Spirit, sugar, water, bitters -- that's an old fashioned. "He emphatically counts with his fingers when breaking down each component of a cocktail. It doesn't have to be whiskey. You can use anything. We'll make up twenty different Old Fashioneds. "These foolproof combos help keep customers happy.

This training is also a full body workout. Not only do ingredients have to be carefully selected, measured precisely, and made in specified equipment, Magarian is uncompromising when it comes to the physicality of the craft. His drill is gospel: stand straight, shake at two o'clock for exactly six seconds, left foot forward, stomach tight ("don't let the drink shake you"), pinkie down when cracking the shaker open, and pour. Garnishes and final glass presentation require attention, too. It's all part of "teaching how to never make a bad drink."

It's his brand of "dynamic learning" that enables his clients' employees to master classic cocktails, eclectic signature drinks, and most importantly, their own palates. Hopefully they absorb even a small percentage of Magarian's encyclopedic knowledge. (Ever heard of the Corpse Reviver No. 2, a gin and absinthe cocktail popular at the Savoy Hotel during the 1920s? Magarian will tell you all about it.) And in the process, elevate the field.

Magarian has come to understand the nuances of how much power we have behind the bar. Because we walk a thin line between being a drug dealer and a societal enhancer. So he forges ahead, one fine, perfectly crafted drink at a time.

Kiwi Envy
Magarian wanted to serve a type of kiwi elderflower Collins cocktail at Katsuya, but "couldn't make it sing." When training the staff members of Katsuya Hollywood he enlisted their help. The following cocktail, which he likens to drinking a "melted kiwi," is the result of this collaborative effort. Its balance, fruity texture, mild sweetness and tiny tart aftertaste make it perfect for summer.

4 thin slices of peeled kiwi
1 ½ oz. dry gin (S Bar uses Plymouth)
¾ oz. St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur (AKA "angel spit")
½ oz. freshly squeezed lime juice
½ oz. simple syrup
1 oz. soda
Kiwi slice (with skin on) and lemon wedge

1.    In a pint shaker glass, add kiwis and hand press with muddler
2.    Add spirits and mixers, fill glass with ice, cover with shaker tin, and shake vigorously for 6 seconds
3.    Add soda and strain over fresh ice into Collins glass
4.    Garnish with kiwi slice and lemon

Photography: Masterson. Copyright 2008. All rights reserved.

The Postmodern Martini

The seemingly endless design possibilities of thermal glassware are well-documented on this site, from a novel french press to shape shifting glasses for liqueur, beer, or wine. Here's another stunning example: Alissia Melka Teichroew's Inside Out Martini Glasses, which surround the iconic cocktail vessel with a water glass-shaped exterior. A set of two is $68 at the MoMA Store.

Ancient Brew

A collaboration between molecular archeologist Patrick McGovern and Dogfish Head Brewery has led to the recreation of a 9,000 year-old beer hailing from from Northern China. Analyzing ancient artifacts, McGovern determined they once held a beer made with rice, honey, and fruit. He recruited Dogfish to reinvent the beer, dubbed Chateau Jiahu, which combines rice, Wildflower honey, Muscat grapes, barley malt, hawthorn fruit, Chrysanthemum flowers, and sake yeast. In a taste test, the editors at Archaeology called it "strong, meady, and heavy as a brick," with a "complex bouquet."

Quick Chill

Forget the ice bucket. Vacu Vin's Rapid Ice Cooler promises to chill a bottle of wine (or champagne or beer, for that matter) in just five minutes. When not in use, the space-saving ice jacket stores flat in your freezer. $10.99 at Klinq.com. [via not martha]

Built for Beer

In collaboration with the firm of Tiax, Samuel Adams has designed a beer glass that promises a "full sensory drinking experience." According to the company, the curvaceous container is designed with features that collect and enhance aroma, sustain a foamy head, and retain proper beer temperature. $30 for four glasses at the Samuel Adams E-Store. [via Mouthing Off]

Kosher Coke Smackdown

The web has been abuzz over so-called "kosher Coke," the special kosher for Passover edition of Coke that is sweetened with sugar rather than high fructose corn syrup (HFCS). Because HFCS is made from corn, it is prohibited during the Jewish holiday, so Coca-Cola bottles a version of the soft drink made with sucrose.

Off the Broiler blogger Jason Perlow has been the Internet's primary resource on the subject, updating and annotating a 2006 post with instructions on how to identify the soda and where to find it.

I'm not much of a soda drinker, but I was curious about how the stuff tasted, so we headed over to Kew Gardens Hills, which boasts a major Orthodox Jewish population. At Wasserman's supermarket, we found a rack of 2-liter bottles topped with the distinctive yellow caps marked "OU-P" that distinguish them from ordinary HFCS-sweetened Coke.

Once home, we held a soda smackdown. The results: a draw.

As I mentioned, I'm not a huge soda fan (so take this with a grain of salt), but I could not distinguish a major difference in the flavor of the sucrose-powered Coke. I wanted it to be great, but the two versions tasted pretty much the same. If I could discern anything, the kosher Coke had less of a "finish," whereas its HFCS counterpart's sweet flavor lingered longer on the tongue (for better or for worse). It also seemed less carbonated (which I liked), but this may have been a peculiarity of the particular bottle we took home.

Overall, I was underwhelmed. Have you tasted kosher Coke? What do you think? Good, great, or not worth the hype?

Belgian Brooklyn

Brooklyn Brewery's brand new Brooklyn Local 1 is a Belgian-style ale brewed from raw sugar from the island of Mauritius, Belgian yeast, and German barley malt. The bottle conditioned beer, golden in color and tasting slightly of honey, boasts a whopping nine percent alcohol level. Look for the new beer, sold in 750 ml bottles, at Fairway, Whole Foods, D'Agostino, and other New York area retailers.

Get a Grip

The usual advice for holding a wine glass is to grasp the stem and keep your 98 degree paws far away from the wine. However, these counterintuitive Glass of Truth Tumblers are designed with indentations for your thumb and finger to encourage heat transfer so that "the warmth from your hand radiates throughout the wine, releasing aromas and unlocking subtle flavors." $38 for a pair at napastyle.com. [via daily olive]

Tray Chic

Look ma, one hand! The New York Times points to this unique self-balancing tray, made of plastic and stainless steel, which will ensure that your New Year's Eve bubbly is transported safely and stylishly. The tray is available in blue or green for $65 at MXYPLYZYK.

From the Archives: Wine Bloggers Talk Turkey

This post originally appeared on November 19, 2004. The "Best Bets" are probably moribund, but the recommendations about what types of wine pair best with Thanksgiving dinner should still hold up.

'Tis the season for an onslaught of articles recommending wines that pair well with the Thanksgiving meal. Judging from the large number of google searches landing upon last year's post rounding up the food media's suggestions for wines with turkey, I decided to revisit the topic again this year, but this time with a twist.

Before collecting links to all of the major media recommendations for Thanksgiving wines, I thought it might be interesting to gather wine pairing suggestions from the growing world of wine blogs too. I sought out the opinions of several wine bloggers (as well as two particularly wine-oriented food bloggers). Their recommendations varied widely -- from Zinfandel to Champagne, German Riesling to Chenin Blanc. Thanks to all who responded, and without further ado, here's what they said.

Vinography Says: Pinot Noir, Syrah, Tempranillo, and Sangiovese
"Thanksgiving is a tough meal to pair wines with because of the wide variety of flavors and foods on offer, and the fact that they are all consumed together,” says Alder Yarrow, creator of the wine blog Vinography. “You've got turkey which can be more suited to white wines, but then you've got dark meat and gravy, potatoes, and stuffing which are rich and heavily spiced and more suited to red wines. Not to mention the sweet flavors of cranberry relish which is a really tough pairing.”

“In general, because a lot of this food is rich and buttery I tend to lean towards wines that have high acidity, and because turkey is a more rich poultry I think red wines are better than whites, which will fall flat with certain elements of the dinner. So what does this mean? I generally favor Pinot Noir, Syrah, Tempranillo, and Sangiovese based wines, most of which are not from the U.S. (which tends to make these varietals in a heavier style). All of these varietals tend to be made into wines with a good modicum of acid, a nice tart, light flavor, and often subtler fruit flavors mixed with earthier elements that complement the flavors of Thanksgiving."

Best Bet: Kermit Lynch's Domaine Pallieres Gigondas.

Professor Bainbridge Says: Zinfandel
"Assuming a gathering of friends but not of wine snobs, you want good wines that will complement the food but not be the star attraction," writes Southern California-based wine blogger Stephen Bainbridge, also known as Professor Bainbridge on Wine.

"Star attraction wines -- well aged clarets, cabernets, or burgundies -- don't mesh well with Thanksgiving Day. Granted, roast turkey would go well with most wines. Turkey is not as much of a blank canvas as roast chicken, as it has stronger flavors and firmer texture, but it still will work well with most wines. Instead, the problem children are all the other stuff we eat at Thanksgiving. A lot of strong flavors (both sweet and savory) -- herbed stuffing, yams with those little marshmallows, cranberry in some form, and (lord help us) jello molds. No fine claret or burgundy should have to compete with little marshmallows."

For such a typically American Holiday, Professor Bainbridge recommends pairing turkey with American wines. Specifically, domestic versions of vinifera varietals. “No vinifera wine is more quintessentially American than Zinfandel,” he writes. "Besides which, the berry and brambly flavors of good Zinfandel (by which I mean the red stuff, not the white stuff) will stand up quite nicely to the strong flavors of the Thanksgiving table."

Best Bet: Ridge Pagani Ranch Zinfandel (Sonoma) 1997. "This is a beautiful mature Zinfandel. A medium ruby shading to an attractive brick-red at the rim. A low intensity subtle nose of leather and dried currants on a backbone of cedar shavings. Any rough edges - and Pagani can be tough when young - have been smoothed away. Claret-like flavors of lead pencil and dried currants, with a fading memory of its jammy youth in flavors of nutmeg, cardamom, and vanilla. A rich and dense wine that still has the stuffing to go on aging."

Spittoon.biz Says: South African Chenin Blanc
"Even if I am in the U.K. and Thanksgiving is not one of our celebrations, Christmas and Turkey however are,” says Andrew Barrow from across the pond at Spittoon.biz. "Over the years I have heard all sorts of wines recommended -- from light Beaujolais through Chardonnay (from just about anywhere) down to Australian Sparkling Shiraz. And I have tried most of them too! However, this year I would like to recommend just one white -- a Chenin Blanc from South Africa. Why this one wine? Not only is it stunningly gorgeous, with great texture and oodles of flavour the touch of sweetness to it (call it dry and most wont notice) smoothes it out and assists in linking and matching the various trimmings normally served. (All the trimmings are Brussel sprouts, roast potato, bread sauce, cranberry sauce, giblets and the like)."

Best Bet: Ken Forrester Meinert Chenin Blanc 2002 from South Africa.

An Obsession With Food Says: German Reisling and Sparkling Wines
"I would always suggest having German Riesling and sparkling wine, and last year we had some Southern Rhone wines that worked well," says Derrick Schneider, resident food blogger at An Obsession with Food. I try and have a mix so people can help themselves to what they like best, and I try not too stress about the wine too much. I'm usually plenty stressed as it is!"

"Riesling is a versatile wine that can handle the diversity of dishes on the table, and a good German Riesling Kabinett or Spatlese can stand up to sugary items like cranberry sauce and sweet potatoes with marshmallows (as long as they're not _too_ sugary). A sparkling wine is not only food-friendly but sets a celebratory mood, and a nice Gigondas would be appropriate for the cold (even here!) fall weather and it's relatively flexible with the food."

Best Bet: Rene Geoffroy's Rose Champagne. "Rene Geoffroy grows the grapes for this Champagne himself, which makes him an oddity in the region, where most houses buy from vineyards all around. This is just a fantastic wine, and it seems appropriate to serve something from this small producer with our heritage turkey. I'll probably also be trying the Beaujolais (Cru Beaujolais, not Beaujolais Nouveau) combo this year. Issue 67 of The Art of Eating has a big article on Beaujolais, so I'll probably use some of those recommendations."

Lenndevours Says: Pinot Noir, Shiraz, German Riesling, and Viognier
"First, drink wines you like,” observes Lenn Thompson at Lenndevours. "Don't listen to the so-called 'experts.' If you don't like Pinot Noir, don't drink it just because someone said you should. Personally, for reds I do love Pinot Noir and well-made Shiraz (meaning no Yellow Tail). For whites, I always avoid Chardonnay . . . it usually lacks the acidity I like with food. Instead, I LOVE German Riesling (or any other not super sweet one). Viognier is another good choice. You want fruit with nice acidity . . . but not overwhelming acidity (a.k.a. I don't like Sauvignon Blanc)."

"You want relatively light, fruity wines that aren't oaky or tannic. Thanksgiving can be tough because of the variety of foods involved . . . from mild white meat to sausage-infused stuffings to sweet potatoes . . . but fruity, well-balanced wines are great. I like to have a few options on hand so people can try different things. Also, lighter wines are good because you're already stuffing yourself . . . you don't need big, heavy wines to weigh you down."

Best Bets: 2002 Domaine Jean Pierre Diconne Auxey Duresses Rouge and 2001 Wein & Sektgut Thielen Merlen Fettgarten Riesling Spatlese.

Turn the Screw Says: Dry Champagne, Tempranillo, Rosé, and Riesling
"Here in Savannah, many people don't do the traditional Turkey and stuffing bit that everybody gets all misty-eyed for," cautions Christian Depken of the Georgia-based wine blog Turn the Screw, who offers a range of pairing options. "Cranberry sauce is persona non grata in my house. Given that, here's what I would recommend. Deep fried turkey is very popular around here (if you've ever had one, you'll never eat Turkey any other way), and a combination that I highly recommend is a dry Champagne. My particular favorite (for the money) is Lanson 'Black Label' Brut NV. The tight, clean finish of this wine counters the 'greasy' aspects of the Turkey, similar to that of Cabernet Sauvignon and a good steak.  Plus this wine is far more delicate than many of the more popular Champagne houses (Moët, Roederer)."

"For the more traditional style dinner, I am recommending Spain, particularly the 2002 Telmo Rodriguez 'Dehesa Gago' Toro. Spain is producing some spectacular wines at incredible values, many of them from the less 'popular' regions.  Many of these have garnered high ratings from the press but most of them will fall victim to infanticide if consumed now. This Dehesa Gago is 100% Tempranillo from an 'off year' (according to the press) but as such it doesn't require as much time in bottle.  The tannins are present but not overbearing. The aromatics show all the usual Spanish traits (leather, earth, dried beef) that would go perfectly with the 'turkey and stuffing' styled meal.  Another upshot is the price. I find people are entertaining larger numbers nowadays and this is an ideal wine for such cases without having to take a second mortgage." 

"And for the vegetarian/vegan one of two wines.  The 2003 Routas 'Rouvière'  Rosé Coteaux Varois or the  2002 Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett. The rosé is bone dry, exactly what a proper French rosé should be, but not what most people think of when they think pink. Admittedly this is the quintessential summer wine but for lighter fare or as an entry wine (reception, drink while cooking) it is ideal.  For something a little heavier spiced, the Riesling is my choice. The wine has amazing acidity which is balanced with just the right amount of residual sugar, resulting in a wine that finishes very clean. Tower or Blue Nun this is not.  And furthermore, people should drink more German Riesling, regardless of any holidays. It would make the world a better place."

Cold Comfort

A robe for your romaine? How about some outerwear for your Absolut? As seen at Oh Gizmo! the Ice Jacket is a mold that will encase a bottle of liquor in a sleeve of frozen water. Just insert the bottle in the mold, add water, and place in the freezer to chill. When the device is removed, a built-in drip tray collects water as the ice melts. The Ice Jacket will be available for delivery in the U.S. starting in January 2007. For more information, visit icejacket.com.

Cold Comfort

A robe for your romaine? How about some outerwear for your Absolut? As seen at Oh Gizmo! the Ice Jacket is a mold that will encase a bottle of liquor in a sleeve of frozen water. Just insert the bottle in the mold, add water, and place in the freezer to chill. When the device is removed, a built-in drip tray collects water as the ice melts. The Ice Jacket will be available for delivery in the U.S. starting in January 2007. For more information, visit icejacket.com.

Blood Orange Blizzard

If you're suffering from an Olympic chocolate hangover after too many bicerins, here's a fresh, tangy, seasonal alternative to bring you back from Torino -- a Chapala, made with Winter's bounty of blood oranges. (Read more about the bicerin from chocophile David Lebovitz).

The Chapala is a variation on the Tequila Sunrise, but with the addition of fresh lime. In this version, born in the snowstorm, blood orange juice is substituted for plain O.J. Forget any possibility of a vision of a sunrise in a glass, for the blood orange juice blankets everything in a blizzard of deep red color.

Blood Orange Chapala
Adapted from Cesar: Recipes from a Tapas Bar

1 1/2 ounces tequila
Freshly squeezed blood orange juice to fill
Juice of 1/2 lime
Splash of grenadine

Pour the tequila, blood orange juice, and lime juice into a highball glass over ice. Pour the contents of the glass into a cocktail shaker and mix (with minimal agitation). Return the ice, juice, and liquor to the glass and pour in the grenadine.

Shopping List: San Pellegrino Pompelmo

I seem to be on a citrus kick lately. I can only explain it as a physical manifestation of my mind's frustration with this endless winter.

While I'm still working through my blood orange bounty from last week, thanks to suggestions in the comments, I'm inspired to venture into sour orange territory soon, whether to make sour orange sorbet or cochinita pibil.

But first, a break from oranges for some more citrus: grapefruit.

The first time I had San Pellegrino Pompelmo, a fantastic grapefruit soda, was in Italy, and I have not seen it in stores in New York City until my recent visit to Agata & Valentina for the blood oranges.

I returned there yesterday and brought home a bottle.

Like San Pellegrino's Aranciata and Limonata sodas, Pompelmo is infused with a heavy dose of real fruit juice and pulp (12 percent of the volume, according to the label). If you like grapefruit, you'll love this soda. Very lightly carbonated, it bears the color of white grapefruit and has the refreshing, bittersweet taste of the real thing.

San Pellegrino Pompelmo is $3.49 for a 1.5 liter bottle at Agata & Valentina, 1505 First Avenue at 79th Street (212.452.0690).

Related:
» Who knew that San Pellegrino is owned by Nestlé?
» San Pellegrino history and timeline (1250 to the present).

Best Thing to Happen to Rice Since Sake

High in the mountains of Ibaraki, near Nagano, Japan, the Kiuchi Brewery produces what is probably the only beer in the world brewed from the rice used to make sake. For this distinction, The Food Section bestows upon Hitachino Nest Red Rice Ale the illustrious honor "Best Thing to Happen to Rice Since Sake."

I first got a taste of Kiuchi Brewery's Hitachino Nest beers at the Mermaid Inn, the New England-style seafood spot in New York's East Village. There, I had Hitachino Nest White Ale, a Belgian-style witbier bursting with fruit and spice flavors of orange and coriander. This might seem unorthodox, but its bright, juicy flavor was the perfect accompaniment to a lobster roll.

In addition to Red Rice Ale and White Ale, Kiuchi Brewery also exports a German-style Weizen (wheat beer) and a Sweet Stout made with lactose, or milk sugar.

Established in 1823, Kiuchi Brewery has been devoted to producing sake for most of its history. It was not until 1996 that the brewery started producing its line of Hitachino Nest beers.

According to Richard Scholz, owner of beer emporium Bierkraft in Brooklyn, where I buy the Hitachino beers, Kiuchi Brewery is one of the only breweries in the world using high quality rice to make beer (another is