Today's Washington Post features an article on the locapour movement in Virginia, along with some of the resistance of restaurants and chefs to regional wines:
As the "eat local" movement has taken root in restaurant kitchens across the country, a "drink local" movement has blossomed as well. It started, ironically enough, in California, where the San Francisco Chronicle reported last year that area vintners were complaining about locavore restaurants that glorified local farmers but stocked their lists with imported wines.
The article cites the example of German Broggi, beverage director at the Park Hyatt Hotel "and its fervently locavore restaurant, Blue Duck Tavern," who has embraced the drink local concept "with the idea of building Blue Duck Tavern's 'locapour' credentials."
Food critic Todd Kliman argued in favor of adapting the locavore ethos to wine in an article for The Daily Beast:
But if these are heady days for the local cheesemaker, butcher, and farmer, they're head-scratching days for the local vintner, who has been largely shut out of the feel-good foodie fad. If the wine lists at the country's most prominent locavore restaurants tell us anything, it's that "what grows together, goes together"—the mantra of the movement—is meant to refer to what's on the plate, not what's in the glass. Local and regional wines are seldom to be found.
Canada's Globe and Mail noted the existence of the drink local movement in a 2008 article on "The virtues and pleasures of being a 'locapour'":
Then there's the locavore movement - or, in this case, the locapour movement, as one might call it. Environmentally sensitive people are starting to see the virtue of drinking domestic product rather than transoceanic cargo, just as Europeans have done since the dawn of fermented fruit.