Terroir Shmerroir

Geologists say the idea of terroir as an influence on the flavor of wine is bunk: "[W]hatever 'minerality' in wine is, it is not the taste of vineyard minerals."
 





Comments

I'm no geologist; but I do like rocks. And I live in in Burgundy where this notion of 'terroir' got its traction. What's more, I am a wine broker, specializing in the sort of small-production domains whose stock-in-trade is being able to bring out the 'terroir' in their many small parcels of vine. (Have a look at http://eldenwine.com for 13 years worth of newsletter and articles)

I'm not saying these are credentials for speaking to the issue; but I'm an empirical kind of guy, and I do drink a fair amount of Burgundy. And I can tell you without hesitation that the minerality of a left bank Chablis is different from that of a right bank Chablis. I can taste the rock in Corton mountain AOCs; and the limestone around Pouilly-Fuisse is unmistakable.

What's even more curious is that wines made from a single vineyard by a good winemaker, will, year-in-year-out have underlying traits that come out, be the vintage light or concentrated.

We sometimes taste coffee in wine, or licorice or honey....but we know that these are not really present. Something though makes us think of them....and these impressions are quite common. Maybe minerality is the same sort of effect; maybe it's not the rocks themselves (geologically speaking), but it's definitely the 'terroir'.

All the best from Burgundy
Dennis Sherman
Elden Wine

 

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