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First They Came for the Pork Buns
Eric Asimov laments the Department of Health's closing of Chinatown's Mei Lai Wah Coffee House. Comparing this grungy shrine to roast pork buns to some of the funkiest mold-covered wine cellars in Europe, he wonders whether an exception should have been made: "However unappealing such places might be to modern eyes should not success over time earn them a pass?"




